Africa Time

Hamjambo rafiki wangu!

(Which means "Hello my friend!")

As the title of this post states, I am now on "Africa Time" -- which is extremely laid back and one where things come to you as they do. Thus my lull in posting over the weekend. Apologies.

I'm now in a section of Nairobi called Satellite/Riruta, where the people of my class are truly the only "mzungu" -- humorous local name for white people -- around. We have reached Africa proper, where the roads are dusty, the matatus belch black diesel, and stray goats, dogs, and cats linger on the sides of streets. Where little schoolchildren follow you around with the persistent stream of words "hello, how are you?" (and no matter how many time you answer "good" or "nzuri", they keep asking with huge smiles on their faces, running after you), where Maasai fleeing the drought of their homelands herd their cattle through the streets, where people welcome you into their house at any time with "karibu!" and there is always movement.

I have SO MUCH to say! Where to even begin...

Families here absolutely love hearing about where you are from, and your family in particular. They could care less about what the place actually looks like, but they will study a picture of family intensely, saying, "Oh! You look like both of these grandparents! And like your mom! And sister!" Of course, we probably look like a massive family of mzungus to them, but I really think they enjoy seeing the family line, and are very curious about how close you live to everyone and what your relationship with everyone is. My host mother in particular found it intriguing that nearly all mothers in the states hold a job. Here, they are still emerging from the clutches of a very patriarchial society, and the incredibly rapid urbanization of Nairobi has also presented some interesting obstacles for women to overcome (chiefly, the stigma that all independent women who carry themselves fine on their own are looking for sex and are prostitutes).

American/Western culture is clearly in vogue with the young of the city, and to them, is viewed as superior. They follow European -- particularly British, their former oppressor, oddly enough -- football (the REAL kind, i.e. soccer) with a verge that rivals our obsession with pigskin. American television is funneled into the home via the TV that is seemingly on at all hours of the day (it is background to many of them), and it's the first time in years that I have viewed an American show. The first thing I watched was "Remember the Titans" with my host brother, and it's so interesting how little they know of the South, and how much they simply laughed at the silly predjudiced white men in the movie. All that I could do was shake my head and say, "yes, that was my country." The African-Americans in the movie though do not strike any sort of emotive connection with them though; of course, they see them as simply American too. Very interesting.

I have also had nonstop chai. Seriously. The host mothers here cannot understand how we are so skinny, and take it as their raison de etere to feed us to the African standard (where oldness is revered and respected, and least by those who still followed the more traditional mindsets, and a little bit of skin is entirely healthy). "Chai" means "tea" in swahili, so I can't help but laugh when I think of in the states how we ask for "chai tea", which is essentially saying "tea tea." They like lots of sugar in their drink, and stir in lots of milk as well. Nzuri sana (so good).

Nairobi is in a serious, serious water drought right now. My host father works with Nairobi Water, and they are constantly scrambling to find different ways to weather this spell. Because so much of Nairobi's electricity is generated by hydro power, and since the rivers that used to generate it are running completely dry, not only do they have little water, there is also electricity rationing, where entire sections of the city are shut off from their electricity for a few hours daily. Intense times, for sure.

I set out a bag of Dove chocolate (from mom!) to share with some of my host family, and I only got one piece before the whole thing was gone. Sharing here is taken seriously -- they don't hold back. If you offer, they take. Really funny to notice the difference in mannerisms.

Also, believe it or not, I went to a church service. Jehovah Witness of all things (egad!). My host mother and brother went, so why not? I want to experience as much of this culture as I can. And truth be told, it was pretty standard. All english too. However, Anton's family, who is also Jehovah Witness, ventured off to a HUGE service a little ways from the house that was literaly 1,000 people (official count of 1003), and went on for seven hours. Yeah. Seven hours. I don't know.... that might have been too much culture for me....

Bathing here is hot water, a washcloth, and good ole Daktari Bronner's. With the water shortage, a western shower would be downright offensive, and I don't think I could go about my day with the knowledge that the water I used could have been the only water some people got for a day. I get the feeling that I will have to get used to feeling of somewhat greasy hair...

I also am going to try to persuade one of my host relatives to corn-row my hair. Can you say awesome? Heck yes.

My swahili is gradually getting there. I still say ridiculous things and end up having my host family laugh at me for them, but it is still quite an experience to walk the streets actually being able to speak the language and not look like an absurd tourist. I've been having to resist taking out my camera all the time though... people already stare at you, and with a camera out too... not good for the street credibility.

I was given a Maasai kanga (a traditional cloth dress worn by the tribe) by my family, so I hope to be able to pull it off at some point. You only wear your birthday suit underneath, so I feel it will be fitting for Lewis & Clark. Awesome way to introduce myself to all the new freshman when I get back? Oh yes. I will be know as Rafiki Zach the Swahili Mystic.

Alright, alright, alright (I am saying this to my computer, which is now saying I owe my money for the internet)

More soon, as always! And please comment on this post with any questions you might have of life over here -- I would love to have more of an interactive blog going on.

Love to everyone!

Zach